Princess Anna Costume

I mentioned back in April in my post about the Queen Elsa costume that I made that I was also working on a Princess Anna costume and had been for awhile. Well I finished it...in October.

I had started it in March/April of 2014. So, yes...it took me a year and a half to finish a costume. Not to make excuses, but I wasn't working on it non-stop for that whole year and a half. I stopped and started as I had other projects to work on (Brew Fest, Legally Blonde, Graveyard Cabaret, Queen Elsa, another Brew Fest, Addams Family, etc.).


I also had some technical difficulties.


Way back in March of 2014 when I started on this journey I picked Anna thinking her costume would be easier. Boy was I wrong. I can work with sequins, but embroidery!? Apparently not.


My original plan was to applique all of Anna's "embroidered" embellishments. That worked for the skirt. For the cape I did a combo of applique and machine embroidery from my multi-stitch sewing machine. I did machine borders for the shirt as well. But for the bodice - oh that bodice - applique didn't look right and I didn't have a fancy enough machine for those decorations. So I had to hand embroider the bodice.


HAND embroider! As in by hand. With an embroidery hoop and all.


I am not an embroiderer. It's definitely not my thing. And the fabric I chose - this gorgeous vintage, black velvet was like the worst fabric for embroidery.


By last December I had the skirt, the shirt, and the cape finished.

I also had the bodice cut out and sewn together enough to start embroidery. Then it took me until October to finish the embroidery.

I'll admit there were times I was lazy and just ignored the project because I didn't want to embroider anymore. Fortunately there was no great need for Anna like there was for Elsa - until October. Which is all the motivation I need to get things done.


I did the back first and you can tell.

By the time I got to the front I had figured out a better way to outline the designs to embroider. On the back I was hand drawing it on with chalk and then basting out the center of the design. For the front I printed out the designed and traced it with the sewing machine. It came out so much better.

My boyfriend told me I should just buy an embroidery machine, but honestly, aside from this one project I never embroider. Especially to this degree. Usually for theater you can't even see this kind of detail.

So, here's to those who embroider - I applaud you for your work. Please don't ever make me do it again.

Addams Family

I'm doing my best to catch up on blogging, but as it usually goes I will probably blog regularly for a week or two and then neglect my blog for months at a time.


Just like my potted plant...well the one that's still alive (hence why I don't have kids, or pets).


This past summer I costumed the Addams Family: The Musical. The story is that Wednesday has grown up and fallen in love with a normal boy. He and his parents are coming over for dinner and she is trying to get her family to act normal - it's actually almost the exact same plot as La Cage Aux Folles except with Goths and ghosts instead of Drag Queens.

In the story Uncle Fester (who in the musical is a lot more of a romantic) enlists the families ancestors to help Wednesday out. So in addition to all the regular characters that you know and love (Gomez, Morticia, Lurch, Pugsley, Grandma) there's a chorus of ghosts each from a different time period. That was the part that I had the most fun with.

Fortunately most the family each had only one main costume. I bought Gomez a striped, double breasted suit. Lurch got an ill-fitting suit. Puglsey had a striped T-shirt. Grandma was just a bunch of raggedy stuff from storage. Morticia's dress was the most challenging. I was trying to follow the costumes from the Broadway version which has her in a tight-fitting (of course), low-cut (well duh), purple and black print (slightly unexpected but it totally worked!)

I couldn't find the exact fabric so I just used a purple and black damask. I was hoping for a stretch fabric to make it easier to fit, but alas no such luck. I ended up adding in panels of stretch fabric on the sides because otherwise she couldn't sit down. The best part about the costume was during the end of the show she and Gomez make up over a tango and she opens up a slit on the dress and makes it into a short skirt for dancing. It was quite the awesome surprise.

Back to the ancestors. I had grand plans that were torn asunder due to lack of men (isn't that just how it always goes in the theater). We were supposed to have an even number of men and women, but it just didn't work out. So we had 4 men and 8 women.


My favorites were the conquistador (which I made from a historical pattern - so not easy) and the saloon girl. I had to sew a lot of the ancestors since they all had to be in white (I also did the makeup design). I could not find an all white flapper dress so I had to buy a basic dress and add fringe.

There's also a random number where Fester sings a love song to the moon (Fester is in love with the moon, go figure) and he serenades her with the help of the female ancestor while they are all wearing vintage bathing suits.


The costumes were fun to make, but overall the show was a lot more work, and the work was a lot more taxing than I had anticipated. So, I'm hoping to take somewhat of a sabbatical from costuming large shows for awhile. Not sure how long it will last since I'm kind of a push over, but I'm definitely not jumping at it yet.

Tinkerbell

After being a zombie for Halloween for many years in a row (6 I think) doing Thriller all over the island, this year I wanted to do something fun and cute and pretty and very much NOT zombie. 

So I chose Tinkerbell:

The costume turned out awesome, though I'd originally had grander plans for it (the wings were going to light up). I ended up not having enough time to do the extras, but I still had a great costume.

The dress was made from a corset pattern (https://www.etsy.com/listing/218051177/overbust-corset-sewing-pattern-lingerie?ref=related-7) I just extended it into a dress. 

All the corset structure is underneath:

I dyed the coutil - it didn't come out as green as I would like, but I swear it looked teal while I was dyeing it. Weird. I used flat steel bones for the center front and center back and plastic whalebones for the rest. I also added a zipper on the side since I wasn't going to have a busk. 

One of the challenges while fitting the mockup (toile) was how to do the back - I didn't want it to lace all the way up from the bottom but I needed someway to cover my bum. I tired just sewing the center back together below the lacing but it did not fit right and kept bunching up in the back. So I ended up making a floating modesty panel that was the same size as the two center back pieces (sorry I didn't take a picture before I laced it up):

The full length modesty panel covered my bum (as a proper modesty panel should) and let the dress keep its shape at the bottom. 

I bought the wig and the shoes on Amazon, and the shoe clip-on poofs on Etsy (annemusingdesigns - I had to request them).

 

The wings were difficult. I've never made wings and they seem like they'd be easier than they were. I'm sure there are some easier techniques, but I had some specific requirements because I had planned on making them light up (maybe someday I'll get around to it). I had planned on using fiber optics to light up the veins of the wings, so I needed to be able to sew the fiber optics on - so I couldn't use cellophane (though there are some amazing cellophane wings out there). Also, with the shape I didn't think that stocking would look right. So here's what I did (sorry, again no pics of the process - I was in a bit of a rush):

1. Frames: I made the wings out of 12 gauge wire from the hardware store. This is a very sturdy gauge, but it can also be a little difficult to work with. Next time I might try 14. I shaped the wings and then taped the wires together with electrical tape - there's probably a better, more elegant way, but this worked. I made a U in the middle so I could use my corset to hold it up:

2. Fabric: I used an iridescenct organza for the fabric of the wings. I like the look of the organza but it would have been nice to have had a stretch fabric. I hot glued the fabric around the edges of the frame - again, I'm guessing there's probably a better, more elegant way to do this, but it worked though I did end up with a couple gnarly burns. 

3. Decoration: I used glitter puff paint for the design. I had it drawn out on a piece of paper and just traced over the wings with pencil and then added the puff paint. My puff paint was old and kept clogging. It ended up being a little messy. Also, I might recommend a chrome silver rather than a glitter silverm but I already had the glitter. 

If I'd had more time I would have covered up the middle section with green fabric or felt so it was a little less visible. But overall, the wings worked out great. They were a little uncomfortable in one spot, but I think if I fiddle with the wire I might be able to fix that. 

Things I've learned and things I might do different:

1. Boning: I might hav shortened the boning a bit at the center front. It was exceptionally hard to sit in and almost impossible to drive in. 

2: Lining and casings: I think it might have looked better if I had done a lining instead of individual casings. Probably would have been easier too. 

3. Fashion fabric pattern: the fashion fabric was a little too long in the waist. The structure fit fine, but I ended up with a roll in the green satin. I need to remove maybe a quarter inch at the waist for the outter fabric only. 

4. Zipper: I put the zipper on the wrong side. Oops. I also upgraded zippers halfway through. I started with a nylon zipper and it wasn't strong enough so I got a metal one instead. 

5. Wings: like i said, there's probably better, more elegant ways to make the wings, but I'm not entirely sure what they might be. If you have any ideas/suggestions/experience please let me know. 

Egyptians and Romans and Beer

Maui Brewer's Festival is the most wonderful time of the year. It's always right around my birthday and all my friends go and we've taken to dressing up in costume (see Wonder Woman from last year: http://crafty-asschick.blogspot.com/2014/07/wonder-woman.html?m=0).

This year we chose Egyptians and Romans. Here we are:

Queen Elsa Costume

Frozen! If you haven't seen it watch it. 

These days everyone loves Elsa and singing about letting it go. Believe me - I certainly do. Recently, I made an Elsa costume for a friend (I'm also working on Anna - have been for a year - but there's just too much detail work it's taking forever).

Here's it is:

I didn't use any of the Elsa sewing patterns available through Simplicity, I kind of combined a couple other patterns to make it.  

I used Butterick 4827 for the skirt and sleeves and New Look 6480 for the bodice:

I picked these mainly because I already had them. To figure out where to cut the dress pattern to insert the corset top I overlayed the pattern pieces over each other matching waistlines and drew in where the skirt seam and neckline + sleeves would start. 

Because I used a stretchy power net for the sleeves I had to do a lot of altering to get them to work since the sleeves and neckline needed to be more form fitting than the pattern allowed for. I don't know what would have worked better but that was definitely not the easiest way to go. 

I ended up buying a lot of fabric online because they kept coming in the wrong color. The bodice is taffeta with rain sequins and coutil underneath for support and boning. The skirt is satin and the train is a glittery organza. Like I said before the sleeves are power net. 

I made the corset first and, other than the pattern issues with the sleeves, it was the most difficult part. Working with sequin fabric takes a lot of time. 

Here's my process: I started with white, silk organza and transferred the seam lines and pattern markings on to it using wax transfer paper. 

I then used those pieces to cut out the sequin fabric:

I then basted the organza and sequin fabric together to both secure the fabrics together and to mark the seam lines:

When sewing with sequin fabric you have to remove all the sequins from the seam allowance and the seam lines to sew them together.  Otherwise the sequins get sewn into the seams and poke out in all kinds of ugly and uncomfortable ways. 

Fortunately the sequins were pretty easy to remove. The were sewn on in small groups so I just removed them by pulling out the bobbin thread. It took some time but it could have been worse. 

It's also important to keep some of the sequins to use later either filling in gaps along the seams or as replacements if some fall off. 

Once all the seam lines were free of sequins I sewed the corset together. Then I sewed the train over that before combining the bodice, sleeves and skirt into the final dress:

Wonder Woman

Every year on the Saturday closest to my birthday in mid-May is the Maui Brewers Festival - the best day of the year! I have been to every single one since the first one 6 years ago. It's usually my bday pressie from my sisters.

We've gone VIP the last 3 years because it's gotten almost too popular and that is the best way to avoid lines. You also get extra pours, access to rare beers and a T-shirt.

Three years ago a friend decided we would wear hats and mustaches. Which kinda started something - every year since we've seen people wearing mustaches. Last year we decided to be fancy with fascinators, top hats, ties, etc.

This year we kicked things up a notch. Like really kicked it up. A lot.

We dressed up a superheroes. I chose Wonder Woman. My boyfriend went as Batman.

Rather than buying a pre-made Wonder Woman costume I assembled mine from pieces found in various places - some are specifically meant for Wonder Woman some are not.

Here was my basic costume:

I bought a red corset and blue shorts. The chest piece I bought but had to slice down the middle because of my corset. I added the stars to the shorts.

The belt I made out of upholstery vinyl. The vinyl was gold but not quite the right gold, so I spray painted it.

I bought the boots - actually I had to buy 2 pairs. The first went up way to high and cut me off at the knee. So I let our female Captain America wear them.

I bought a tiara and cuffs as well, but ended up spray painting those too because they were not quite the right gold. I also bought the lasso.

I ended up making a little belt purse so I had a place to put my phone and ID. Unfortunately the straps holding it on didn't last through all of Brew Fest.

Here's me and my boyfriend drinking our rare beers - his was called Tart of Darkness and while it suited Batman perfectly it was one of the most bitter awful beers I've ever tasted.

 

Here's the group of us, though we are missing our Capt America. In case you can't tell we have Lara Croft, Zorro, Batman, Wonder Woman, Mr. Incredible, Lady Punisher, Hit Girl, Wolverine, Supergirl, She-Ra, and Cat Woman.

And here's Wonder Woman and Batman making out because that's just frickin' awesome:

La Cage Aux Folles

So, not quite 2 in one day, but still 2 in 2 days is pretty good for me...

This show is the reason that I haven't blogged in forever, and why I've been slightly cranky for a couple months - if you got any firsthand experience of my mood, I'd like to apologize now.

La Cage Aux Folles is probably one of the largest costume undertakings I have ever done. Wizard of Oz may have been more, but it was a different kind of challenge and I had a lot more help there. I was supposed to have more help for La Cage, but it didn't work out - I blame Fiddler on the Roof for taking all my help away.

So, if you don't know the story of La Cage Aux Folles watch the Birdcage - it's based on the same story. It's a great story and a funny show. But it has a chorus of drag queens - that's where the costume insanity came in. The chorus of drag queens - Les Cagelles - is actually made up of a mix of men and women, with the idea that you're not supposed to be able to tell who is which. Unfortunately there aren't enough masculine women or feminine men on Maui (who can sing and dance) so it was a challenge trying to make them all look the same. We had some tiny little women and some rather large men - AND THEY ALL HAD TO LOOK ALIKE!!

That was my challenge.

Challenge Accepted!

Here's some pictures:

A Little More Mascara

I made the teal dress and jacket that Zaza is wearing - the sequin dresses came from eBay (I did have to make several of larger ones - not seen in this picture).

We Are What We Are

 I made 11 sets of sailor tops and red sparkle shorts - the sparkle shorts look better in person.

La Cage Aux Folles - Can Can

I bought corsets for everyone - they had them in all the sizes I needed, surprisingly. I made the can can skirts. They are awesome and one of my absolute favorite pieces. Here's what the top looks like:

The song 'La Cage Aux Folles' toward the end of the first act has 3 different dance parts for Les Cagelles. They start off as birds, then the can can section from above, then a tailcoat portion at the end. Below is the bird section - they wear the same corset and dance briefs through the whole song. For the bird section they have tutus (there were supposed to be bustles but the boas I bought have not arrived yet - the show opened over a week ago) and showgirl style headdresses.

La Cage Aux Folles - Birds

I made the headdresses following this Sempstress tutorial. It worked out really well - some of the cast helped me make them assembly-line style.  I also ended up trying out some other styles for the finale based on a random pinterest search of showgirl headdresses. Here's the other two (I would have made more but I didn't have enough time):

Here's some random costumes from the finale (and some sequin dresses) at the opening night gala (gay-la) along with the director - second from the left:

Random Costumes - Opening Gala

I made some other really cute headpieces for some of the costumes:

 

The one on the left is one of my favorites but it wasn't used.

It was supposed to go with this costume:

Phaedra - the Enigma

I made that the weekend before the show opened. I used an existing robe and added a whole lot to it. I love the collar. Here's the collar by itself:

It's so fluffy I could die!

Here's another one of the Zaza dress and jacket:

The dress is awesome - I picked the pattern because I needed something I could make zip up the front because she puts it on onstage. But she ended up just wearing it under a robe already zipped - so it zips up the front for no reason. But, on the bright side, I now know how to sew in an invisible zipper.

The material for the jacket was expensive. It's a mesh with sequins and embroidery all over it. I had grand plans to do this jacket correctly and remove the sequins from the seam lines and allowances - but sadly that was taking too frickin' long so I gave up and just sewed through the damn sequins. Oh well - theater allows for some amount of shortcuts. 

Of course there's more to this show than the drag queens. Here's some of the other costumes:

Anne on My Arm

Georges, Jean-Michel, and the Dindons

The Best of Times is Now

One last Cagelle pic. Here's a couple of my friends (they are actually a couple). I made/bought the parts for the costume on the right - she decorated it.