Unfortunately they didn't win, but they sure look cute.
Showing posts with label Tennis skirt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tennis skirt. Show all posts
Saturday, October 16, 2010
Tennis Skirts 2
Update! Here's a picture of my mom's tennis team at Nationals in their adorable skirts that I made for them:
Unfortunately they didn't win, but they sure look cute.
Unfortunately they didn't win, but they sure look cute.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Tennis Skirts
A couple posts ago I talked about Sewing with Knits and some tennis skirts I'm making for my mother's tennis team. In this post I'll go over how those skirts are actually made.
To make the patterns for the skirts most of the ladies gave me a skirt that they liked and I extrapolated the necessary measurements from the skirts. But they all follow similar ratios that can be used to make a simple tennis skirt for most women. All you need is a waist measurement (or measurement for where you'd like the skirt to sit) and a desired length.
Materials needed are:
1/2 yard of 60" spandex or lycra (swimsuit fabric)
1 yard of 3/4" elastic
Twin Stretch Needle
The length of elastic needed is the waist measurement + 1" for overlap.
The rest of the skirt will be two trapezoidal panels. The top of each panel will be half the waist measurement + 2" for stretch + 1" for seam allowance. The side lengths I've worked with range from about 13" to 17" depending on where the skirt is worn (waist vs hips) and how long (or short) you want the skirt to be. You'll need to add 3/4" for the waist band and 5/8" for the hem. The bottom of each panel can range from 5" to 9" more than the width of top the panel.
Below is a diagram with the measurements for the panels for a med sized tennis skirt (29" waist):
Cut 2 panels from the fabric.
With right sides together sew up the sides (angled sides) using either a serger or a zig-zag stitch. Overlapping the ends by 1" sew the elastic into a band. Pin the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric with top edges even and distribute fullness (I like to half, then quarter each and mark with pins). Serge the top edge stretching the elastic to fit the waist of the skirt.
The waistband should look like this once the elastic is attached:
To finish the waistband, fold the elastic under, pin in place and sew from the right side of the skirt using a twin stretch needle stretching the elastic to even out the skirt fabric. You can use the elastic as a guide since you can't see the edge that's being hemmed. Since it's a 3/4" elastic I like to line up the top edge of the skirt with the 5/8" line on my sewing machine face plate to account for the needle offset.
The bottom of the skirt is hemmed the same way, except that you don't have the handy guide of elastic so you need to mark where to fold to get a 5/8" hem. Pin the hem and then sew from the right side of the skirt using the twin stretch needle (for the 5/8" hem I align the edge of the skirt with the 1/2" line on the face plate.
Ta da! Tennis skirt (or bathing suit skirt).
To make the patterns for the skirts most of the ladies gave me a skirt that they liked and I extrapolated the necessary measurements from the skirts. But they all follow similar ratios that can be used to make a simple tennis skirt for most women. All you need is a waist measurement (or measurement for where you'd like the skirt to sit) and a desired length.
Materials needed are:
1/2 yard of 60" spandex or lycra (swimsuit fabric)
1 yard of 3/4" elastic
Twin Stretch Needle
The length of elastic needed is the waist measurement + 1" for overlap.
The rest of the skirt will be two trapezoidal panels. The top of each panel will be half the waist measurement + 2" for stretch + 1" for seam allowance. The side lengths I've worked with range from about 13" to 17" depending on where the skirt is worn (waist vs hips) and how long (or short) you want the skirt to be. You'll need to add 3/4" for the waist band and 5/8" for the hem. The bottom of each panel can range from 5" to 9" more than the width of top the panel.
Below is a diagram with the measurements for the panels for a med sized tennis skirt (29" waist):
Cut 2 panels from the fabric.
With right sides together sew up the sides (angled sides) using either a serger or a zig-zag stitch. Overlapping the ends by 1" sew the elastic into a band. Pin the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric with top edges even and distribute fullness (I like to half, then quarter each and mark with pins). Serge the top edge stretching the elastic to fit the waist of the skirt.
The waistband should look like this once the elastic is attached:
To finish the waistband, fold the elastic under, pin in place and sew from the right side of the skirt using a twin stretch needle stretching the elastic to even out the skirt fabric. You can use the elastic as a guide since you can't see the edge that's being hemmed. Since it's a 3/4" elastic I like to line up the top edge of the skirt with the 5/8" line on my sewing machine face plate to account for the needle offset.
The bottom of the skirt is hemmed the same way, except that you don't have the handy guide of elastic so you need to mark where to fold to get a 5/8" hem. Pin the hem and then sew from the right side of the skirt using the twin stretch needle (for the 5/8" hem I align the edge of the skirt with the 1/2" line on the face plate.
Ta da! Tennis skirt (or bathing suit skirt).
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Sewing With Knits
I am currently working on a job for my mom's tennis team. They will be going to Nationals in Indian Wells, CA in october and wanted cute, matching, Hawaiian print skirts to wear while competing. My mom asked me awhile ago - while I was overwhelmed with Wedding Singer costuming - and I agreed knowing that I'd be working with a fabric that would be new and different and potentially very, very challenging.
Fashionable tennis skirts these days - well on Maui at least - are really more like bathing suit skirts. Pretty simple, made from lyrcra or spandex. But while the patterns are very basic, the fabric can be tricky to work with.
Sewing with knits, or any fabric that stretches is different from sewing with regular fabric because regular seams don't stretch. So, you need to use stitches that do stretch.
The best thing to use for sewing with knits is a serger. It creates that fancy overlock stitch that is found on all commercially produced clothing. I have a serger, though I use it mostly for creating a strong covered edge for regular seams - it helps to prevent raveling.
The next best thing for sewing with knits is a twin needle, specifically a stretch twin needle. A serger creates an overlock so it requires an edge. To get a nice edge it is equipt with a knife that cuts the edge just to the right of the inside of the seam. This means that a serger really doesn't work for hemming.
To get a stretch stitch on a regular sewing machine the easiest thing to do is use a zig-zag stitch. The zig-zag will allow for stretch. However, a slightly better, more professional looking seam comes when you use a twin needle. This is two needles spaced apart by a couple millimeters with a crossbar and a single end that goes into the sewing machine like a regular needle. You need to thread the sewing machine with two threads and thread each needle with it's own thread. Nothing changes with the bobbin. Because of the two needles the bobbin thread gets zig-zagged between the two and this creates the stretch.
I'll post pictures as I go.
Fashionable tennis skirts these days - well on Maui at least - are really more like bathing suit skirts. Pretty simple, made from lyrcra or spandex. But while the patterns are very basic, the fabric can be tricky to work with.
Sewing with knits, or any fabric that stretches is different from sewing with regular fabric because regular seams don't stretch. So, you need to use stitches that do stretch.
The best thing to use for sewing with knits is a serger. It creates that fancy overlock stitch that is found on all commercially produced clothing. I have a serger, though I use it mostly for creating a strong covered edge for regular seams - it helps to prevent raveling.
The next best thing for sewing with knits is a twin needle, specifically a stretch twin needle. A serger creates an overlock so it requires an edge. To get a nice edge it is equipt with a knife that cuts the edge just to the right of the inside of the seam. This means that a serger really doesn't work for hemming.
To get a stretch stitch on a regular sewing machine the easiest thing to do is use a zig-zag stitch. The zig-zag will allow for stretch. However, a slightly better, more professional looking seam comes when you use a twin needle. This is two needles spaced apart by a couple millimeters with a crossbar and a single end that goes into the sewing machine like a regular needle. You need to thread the sewing machine with two threads and thread each needle with it's own thread. Nothing changes with the bobbin. Because of the two needles the bobbin thread gets zig-zagged between the two and this creates the stretch.
I'll post pictures as I go.
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