Sewing With Knits

I am currently working on a job for my mom's tennis team. They will be going to Nationals in Indian Wells, CA in october and wanted cute, matching, Hawaiian print skirts to wear while competing. My mom asked me awhile ago - while I was overwhelmed with Wedding Singer costuming - and I agreed knowing that I'd be working with a fabric that would be new and different and potentially very, very challenging.

Fashionable tennis skirts these days - well on Maui at least - are really more like bathing suit skirts. Pretty simple, made from lyrcra or spandex. But while the patterns are very basic, the fabric can be tricky to work with.

Sewing with knits, or any fabric that stretches is different from sewing with regular fabric because regular seams don't stretch. So, you need to use stitches that do stretch.

The best thing to use for sewing with knits is a serger. It creates that fancy overlock stitch that is found on all commercially produced clothing. I have a serger, though I use it mostly for creating a strong covered edge for regular seams - it helps to prevent raveling.

The next best thing for sewing with knits is a twin needle, specifically a stretch twin needle. A serger creates an overlock so it requires an edge. To get a nice edge it is equipt with a knife that cuts the edge just to the right of the inside of the seam. This means that a serger really doesn't work for hemming.

To get a stretch stitch on a regular sewing machine the easiest thing to do is use a zig-zag stitch. The zig-zag will allow for stretch. However, a slightly better, more professional looking seam comes when you use a twin needle. This is two needles spaced apart by a couple millimeters with a crossbar and a single end that goes into the sewing machine like a regular needle. You need to thread the sewing machine with two threads and thread each needle with it's own thread. Nothing changes with the bobbin. Because of the two needles the bobbin thread gets zig-zagged between the two and this creates the stretch.

I'll post pictures as I go.